AR-15 Bolt and Carrier Assembly and Maintenance

For someone new to the AR-15 weapon platform, weapon cleaning and the disassembly associated with it can be a little worrisome.  The AR-15 is a battle weapon, and despite all the opinions of the "pro-AK" crowd, it honestly requires very little maintenance and is a very rugged and dependable design.  Normal post-shooting cleaning and maintenance, however, will provide a long and dependable service life of the rifle and its parts.  We have detailed a simple cleaning procedure in a previous blog post, but this one will focus on the bolt and carrier assembly exclusively and in greater detail (rather than the entire weapon overview provided in the earlier post on the subject).

By pushing out the rear takedown pin on the left side of the weapon, the upper receiver of the rifle will pivot on the front takedown pin and allow you access to the charging handle and bolt and carrier assembly for removal.  Pull on the charging handle as you would to chamber a round and the bolt and carrier assembly will slide out of the rear of the upper receiver.


Firing pin retaining pin removal


The first step in disassembly is to remove the firing pin retaining pin; you may be able to do it with your fingernails but if not, a small pointed object like a nail can begin to free it from the carrier. Make sure to set any removed parts aside safely so they do not get lost.  Once the firing pin retaining pin is removed, the firing pin should slide out of the bolt and carrier assembly if it is tipped up.  If it is heavily fouled, you may have to pull it out towards the cut out in the rear portion of the carrier.  The retaining pin may not require much cleaning, but there will likely be a build up of fouling on the firing pin itself, especially in the area where the retaining pin holds it in the bolt.  Heavy build up may require soaking in a solvent, but typically a toothbrush or light wire brush can remove just about any amount of fouling.




Cam pin ready for removal from bolt and carrier

Once the firing pin is removed, the cam pin should be rotated so that it can be removed from the bolt and out of the top of the carrier, right below the carrier key (the bolt must be in its rearmost position to allow you access to remove it).  Light cleaning is also usually all that is necessary for the cam pin.  Once it is removed, the bolt can be pulled out of the front of the carrier.  This completes our suggested disassembly procedure for the bolt and carrier assembly.



For typical maintenance and cleaning, we do not suggest removing the extractor or ejector parts of the bolt.  A dental pick or similar instrument can remove any fouling buildup from right under the extractor claw on the bolt face and a toothbrush and light solvent should be all that is necessary to clean this area of the bolt.  Running the solvent soaked brush over the gas rings on the bolt is a good idea as well, but always make sure the slots in the gas rings are not aligned once you have done this and before inserting the bolt back into the carrier.  Having the gaps in the rings aligned can cause excessive gas leakage to pass by them and affect the cycling of the weapon.  Carbon fouling can really build up on the tail end of the bolt, so special attention should be focused here.  A light coat of oil on the bolt (except for the bolt face) should be the last step in maintenance before reassembly.  The internal areas of the carrier may require solvent and brushing to remove carbon fouling.  Any weapons cleaning product purchased at a sporting goods retailer can accomplish this, though most people have their favorite brands.  In our earlier blog post on cleaning the AR-15, we provided the names of a few of the most popular brands and their benefits.

Insert the bolt back into the front of the carrier, making sure the cam pin hole in the bolt is properly oriented for the cam pin slot in the carrier.  If you look at the bolt face "head on" the extractor should be at the 11 o'clock position.  The cam pin will only go into one side of the bolt, so if it is not fitting, check and make sure the bolt and extractor are oriented as stated  above.  Once the cam pin is inserted into the carrier and bolt, the firing pin can be inserted into the tail of the bolt from the cutout in the back of the carrier.  The cam pin must be oriented perpendicular (in length) rather than parallel to allow the firing pin to be inserted all the way.  Now that the firing pin is in, the last step will be to put the firing pin retaining pin back in to hold the firing pin inside the bolt.  Pull and push on the bolt (imitating the cycling of the weapon) to make sure the entire assembly is correctly assembled.

Fouling build up in the barrel, chamber, barrel extension, and bolt and carrier assembly can cause malfunctions and decrease the productive lifespan of your weapon.  It is best to clean these areas thoroughly as soon as possible after a typical shooting session.  It can seem difficult to new owners and time consuming to all to pay attention to and disassemble all of these parts...after doing it a time or two, you will find you have become more proficient and knowledgeable about the key components of this weapon system and how it operates.  Here is a link to our website with a diagram of the bolt and carrier parts: boltandcarrierparts.

Thanks for reading our blog. If you have any questions about bolt and carrier assembly or maintenance or about the rifles we produce and parts we sell at www.del-ton.com, please contact us.

Basic AR-15 Modifications-Gas Block Installation

In our last blog entry, we gave instructions on how simple it is to switch out two-piece handguards. This time, we will give basic instructions and tips on how to remove a front sight base and install a gas block of a different type. The ability to remove the front sight base is necessary if you want to install most free float handguards as well.  As we stated in the previous blog, make sure you are aware how any modifications you perform on your rifle may affect its warranty, and keep safety in mind at all times.  If you are unsure if your weapon is safe to use, have it inspected by a professional gunsmith.

There are a few very necessary tools and parts required for this modification.  A set of punches (roll pin and standard), a hammer, a crescent wrench for the flash hider, and a special front sight base bench block will make this task easy and successful.

Removing the gas tube roll pin

1.  The first step will be to knock out the gas tube roll pin with a small punch.  If you have two piece handguards, you will need to remove them to access the gas tube.  Once the roll pin is removed, pull the gas tube toward the upper receiver and it should slide out of the front sight base.  When it is removed, you can gently bend it enough to then pull it forward out of the upper receiver.  If you carefully do these two tasks, you should be able to reuse the roll pin and gas tube (now is a perfect opportunity to use a pipe cleaner to clean the inside of the gas tube, too).  You will also need to remove the muzzle device (flash hider, etc...) so that the front sight base can be slid off the barrel toward the muzzle once the taper pins are removed in the next step.

Using a punch to drive out the taper pins

2.  At DTI, we install front sight bases with taper pins and they will need to be driven out of the front sight base from the smaller side of the pin.  The smaller diameter of the taper pin is found on the left side of the weapon, opposite of the ejection port cover.  This is where the front sight base bench block comes in handy.  This "jig" will carefully hold the front sight base steady and allow you to begin to drive the pins out with a larger punch.  Make sure the upper is on a surface level with the bench block jig and that it is wrapped in a rag or something soft to prevent marring when the pins are driven out. The pins can be tight, but once they get moving a smaller punch can finish driving them out of the front sight base.  Now you should be able to gently tap the front sight base with a hammer to remove it off of the barrel towards the muzzle.

Front sight base with taper pins removed

3.  Now, install the gas tube into the new gas block by correctly inserting it, making sure to have the roll pin hole aligned so that the roll pin can be driven through using a roll pin punch and finished with a standard punch.  Once this is accomplished the gas block is ready to be mounted on the barrel, and the attached tube inserted back into the upper receiver. 

The taper pins from the original front sight base will leave two crescent shaped marks on the bottom of the barrel, so if you do not want this visible it is important to select a gas block that will cover these marks (something larger than a low profile style, usually). 

It is very important to make sure the gas port of the gas block is centered over the gas port of the barrel. This can be done by sighting down the barrel from the end of the upper receiver, and if you use handguards that do not require an endcap, make sure that you leave a thin space (the thickness of the endcap), and do not mount the gas block all the way back to where the barrel profile thickens.

YHM Specter gas block installed

4.  If your gas block uses set screws or is a clamp on style with tightening screws/bolts, a little loc-tite should be applied once the gas block is mounted and you are sure the weapon is operational.  If it is a clamp-on style with a number of screws, make sure that they are all tightened evenly and that any gaps between the two pieces of the gas block are equal.

Thanks for reading our blog.  In the upcoming blog entries we will continue to offer instructions on basic AR-15 modifications, so stay tuned.  If you have any questions about gas blocks and what will work with your set-up, the parts we sell, or the rifles we manufacture at www.del-ton.com, please feel free to contact us.

Basic AR-15 Modifications-Handguards

It is fairly rare that an AR-15 will not undergo some changes to its appearance or performance even when it has only one owner.  New parts to enhance the functionality of the weapon to an individual's specific application are continually being marketed and modularity is one of the things that makes the AR-15 such a great weapon platform.  In the next few blog posts, we will attempt to assist AR-15 owners who want perform some alterations by providing basic tutorials with instructions and photographs.  Be sure to check the user manual and warranty information for your particular weapon, as some alterations may void manufacturer warranties.

Changing out standard, two-piece handguards may be very simple for someone familiar with the AR-15, but the fact that a specific tool is made for it has caused me to consider offering instructions on removal/installation if only to save someone the cost of the tool!  Honestly, this tool can make it easier to pull back the delta ring but for most individuals it is probably unnecessary. Pulling back the delta ring is where this task starts...

1.  Separate the lower receiver from the upper receiver by depressing the takedown/pivot pins until the two halves of the weapon can come apart.

2.  Secure the upper receiver in an AR-15 receiver vise block or place the end of the receiver against a firm surface like a bench or your stomach, and pull the delta ring rearward with one hand.

3.  With the other hand, separate the two-piece handguards near the rear of the handguard where the two pieces meet.  Often you can do this with a fingernail; if necessary, they can also be GENTLY and CAREFULLY separated with a thin tool (only do this enough to allow your fingernails to do the rest of the work).

4.  Typically, the top piece is easier to remove and install first.  While holding the rear of the top piece of the handguard, push forward towards the front sight base while lifting the rear of the handgaurd away from the barrel. Once it is removed, while the delta ring is still pulled rearward, push forward on the bottom piece and then pull away at the rear of the handguard.

Top Piece Installation

5.  To install a new, two-piece style handguard: insert the front of the top piece into the end cap behind the front sight base or gas block.  Once it is centered (the gas tube should be centered in the vent holes of the handguard), pull the delta ring rearward again and "snap in" the rear of the top piece.  Once it is firmly seated, the delta ring should clear the rear of the top piece and hold it in when it is released.  It is necessary to make sure the front of the top piece is correctly centered (especially with the basic, two-piece handguards) in the two detents on the end cap to avoid difficulty when installing the front of the bottom piece of the handguard next.



Bottom Piece Installation

Now pull back the delta ring again and insert the front of the bottom piece of the handguard into the bottom of the endcap behind the front sight base or gas block.  While lightly pushing forward on the bottom piece towards the endcap, allow the rear of the piece to "snap in" before releasing the delta ring.  The delta ring should cover the back of both top and bottom pieces equally and be straight/perpendicular to the barrel when released.  The photograph below displays the new handguards installed correctly.



Whether you are installing a new set of  basic, two piece handguards or a newer, upgrade part like Magpul's MOE handguards or even a two-piece four rail handguard, these installation instructions will apply.  Thanks for reading our blog.  If you have any questions about installation, the parts we sell, or the AR-15 rifles we produce and offer at www.del-ton.com, please feel free to contact us.

SBR-Basics of the Short Barreled AR-15

A recent and popular trend in the "AR-15 world" has been the manufacturing and use of rifles with shorter barrels.  Like any modification made to the original/typical AR-15, there are costs and benefits to this particular configuration.  This blog post will highlight some of these considerations and offer basic information in regard to the legality and options one may have in building or purchasing a SBR in the AR-15 platform. 

I remember being quite thrilled when my unit began to issue 14.5 inch barreled M4 rifles.  The reduction in weight and ease of movement in tight quarters with the weapon were major benefits from my perspective.  Before my time in service ended, we were using the AR platform with a barrel just over 10 inches and the same benefits were even more noticeable and appreciated.  The main "negative" associated with a shorter barrel is the difficulty of successfully engaging targets that are at a greater distance.  With the loss of every inch of barrel length comes a reduction in velocity of around 100 FPS (many other factors are involved here, thus the use of the word "around").  Velocity affects energy and both affect terminal ballistic performance...if your "target" is affected by terminal ballistics and is at a longer distance, a SBR may be something to reconsider. It was rare that our mission/application necessitated using the weapon at longer distances, and if that need arose there were other weapons better suited to be used for such an application.  Any choice in the particular configuration of an AR-15 should be made with your application (how you intend to use it, most of the time) in mind.  If your predominate use of the weapon would be to engage distant targets and you have no NEED for a compact weapon, an AR-15 with a longer barrel would better serve you.

In regard to legality, any rifle with a barrel shorter than 16" is considered to be an SBR.  The same regulations that pertain to barrel length also apply to the overall length of a weapon.  A rifle must be at least 26" long from end to end.  The buttstock of the rifle can be full extended if it is collapsible to achieve this minimum overall length.  These regulations were part of the NFA (National Firearms Act) of 1968 (an earlier NFA act of 1934 was voided by changes made in the more recent legislation).  In order to own/build/possess an AR-15 SBR  you must obtain approval from the BATF.  This includes having the Chief Law Enforcement Officer (Sheriff or town/city chief of police) sign off on the ATF form, passing a federal background check (to include fingerprints/photo), and registering the rifle with the ATF.  Many other regulations exist in regard to the SBR (such as interstate transportation), even after you have waited for and received approval to purchase/own one.  For complete information about the process of acquiring or owning a SBR, visit this link : http://www.atf.gov/firearms/nfa/.

There are ways of owning an AR-15 with a shorter barrel without receiving NFA approval...such as permanently attaching a muzzle device onto the short barrel that ensures the barrel is the necessary length.  This includes drilling a hole through the muzzle device and partially into the barrel, inserting a pin, and then welding over the inserted pin.  For a modification like this to be legal, the muzzle device must be permanently attached in a manner such as this. A 14.5" barrel can easily be brought to the required 16" length if a flash hider/compensator/muzzle brake of the appropriate length is permanently affixed.  The same can be done with an 11.5" barrel with a 5.5" flash hider.  While this configuration "looks cool" (a lot like the Colt Commando/XM177 Vietnam era configuration), the benefits like weight reduction and maneuverability are lost with the longer muzzle device length and there is no gain in distance capability (it would make more sense to have these extra inches in rifling).  The 14.5" barrel/pinned extended flash hider is where this method of owning a shorter barrel has the greatest benefit.  DTI offers these short barrels and a few muzzle devices from Troy and YHM that, when pinned and welded, will bring a 14.5" barrel to the necessary length and allow you to avoid all of the NFA hassle.

Thanks for reading our blog.  If you have any questions about SBRs, the parts we mentioned in this post, or any of the parts and rifles we make and sell here at DTI, please feel free to contact us.

Introduction to Predator Hunting-Getting Started

In our last blog post, we discussed how the AR-15 rifle was perfectly suited for use in predator hunting.  While some companies make a unique model of AR-15 specifically designed for predator hunting, a standard AR-15 in any configuration can work just fine.  There may be things you can do to modify the weapon you already have that will increase the weapon's usefulness in this application, but any AR-15 rifle can contribute to a successful predator hunting experience.  We also mentioned that getting involved in this shooting sport can have benefits that translate into better techniques and skills in other applications in which you may use your AR-15 rifle (like target shooting, 3 gun competitions, or even defensive applications).

If coyote hunting is your focus, selecting proper camouflage (whether in clothing or in a "blind" set-up) is crucial due to the excellent eyesight of these animals.  The environment in which you plan to hunt should be the main factor in selecting which camouflage pattern to use.  If you will be hunting in the Western U.S.  on open prairies, your selection will be much different than someone hunting in the dense, swampy woodlands of the Southeast U.S.

Typically, coyote hunting means sitting in a well camouflaged location and using calls and decoys to bring a coyote in to shooting range.  The location for your blind set-up should be decided by access to unimpeded shooting lanes when the animal does come to the call or decoy.  If a location is unproductive to your calling techniques, it's probably a good idea to move to another location within an hour or so.  If it is a successful location and you were able to place a shot on a coyote, it is a good idea to be still and  wait as another opportunity may present itself.  Often multiple coyotes may be responding to your call, and the noise of gunfire isn't always a deterrent to them.  Movement, however should be kept to a minimum while at a blind location.  Predator calls can vary from expensive electronic calls to handheld wood or plastic calls with reeds that the hunter uses like a deer or duck call.  The benefit of the electronic calls (even the less expensive ones) is that they can be placed and used in a location away from the hunter, thus reducing the chance that the hunter is detected when the animal responds to the call.

Ammunition choice is also important, though just about any .223/5.56 bullet can be used successfully in hunting coyotes.  A few manufacturers (Hornady, Federal, Nosler) offer a varmint hunting line of ammunition, and any of these options would be a good choice. Even in heavily wooded hunting locations, the techniques used in coyote hunting (including accurate range estimation and the necessity to fire an accurate shot when the opportunity presents itself) will only make you a better marksman in other applications in which you use your rifle.

The same benefits can be acquired by feral hog hunting (or any hunting experience, really).  While feral hogs do not have the amazing eyesight that coyotes and other predators do, their sense of hearing and smell are quite good.  Much like coyote hunting, it is important to know where these animals are active and position yourself in a location to view the animal's movement while not allowing them to know of your presence.  Techniques like still hunting and stalking can be used in feral hog hunting, where they may be counter-productive in hunting predators like coyotes and bobcats.

Ammunition selection for feral hog is a little more narrow in options.  These animals have a fairly tough hide and it is important to choose a bullet that will penetrate deeply while still having some expansion.  Solid copper bullets like the Winchester Razorback, Hornady GMX, or Barnes Vor-tx would be a good choice. They have a high weight retention, good penetration, and good expansion. Hunting can make you a better "shot" by requiring you to fire your weapon in a timely manner and focus on a target that is not static.  Techniques used in feral hog hunting (baiting, night hunting, use of hunting dogs), can vary depending on your location and what your state regulations allow.  In many locations, there is no "closed season" on these animals, so this type of hunting offers a year round opportunity to practice your shooting techniques and hone your skills.  It is important to be knowledgeable about and follow these regulations...the opinions of those who may be negative or undecided about hunting, firearms in general, and modern sporting rifles in particular are at stake. 

Once you are informed about these regulations, it may be helpful to research hunting techniques and locations specific to the area in which you will hunt.  Local outdoor sporting goods stores may have staff that can offer assistance or point you to a place where you can find this information.  The Internet has plenty of forums and websites devoted to predator hunting, and a fair amount of helpful information can be acquired by visiting them. 
Predator hunting is a great way to increase your opportunities to use your AR-15 and can be a nice change of pace from target shooting or even professional, defensive training classes.

Thanks for reading our blog. If you have any questions about the AR-15 rifles we produce or any of the AR parts we offer at www.del-ton.com, please feel free to contact us.

Introduction to Predator Hunting-Advantages of the AR-15

For an exciting opportunity to hone your shooting or hunting skills, consider predator hunting.  The tactics required to be successful in hunting animals like coyotes and wild/feral hogs can offer benefits to other shooting sports or defense applications in which you may already be involved.  Both coyotes and feral hogs require hunting to control their population densities.  Coyotes have always negatively affected livestock in rural areas but they have extended their range into urban settings and domestic pets are now subject to these predators.  Feral hogs in Texas were responsible for damages to agricultural crops in  the amount of  $52,000,000 annually (according to a 2011 study by Texas A& M University). 


While numerous states have now legalized the use of the AR-15 (or modern sporting rifle) for deer hunting, this weapon platform is just about perfect for predator hunting. It is about as light in weight as most bolt action rifles, and its inherent modularity makes it a great choice for specific locations or hunting styles.  While some manufacturers offer models that are soley designed for predator hunting, the AR-15 you currently own (or any one that you are considering purchasing) may be a great tool for a successful hunt.  And with a few simple, inexspensive modifications, a standard AR-15 can be transfromed into a predator hunting rifle that is perfectly designed for your hunting style and location.  We will detail a few of the products we offer at DTI in this post and how they can benefit your predator hunting experience.

Because the color black is rarely found in nature, it may be a good idea to "camo-up" the weapon.  This can be accomplished to some degree by simply installing green (olive drab or foliage) of tan (coyote or flat dark earth) stocks, handguards, and grips.  DTI offers these products from manufacturers like Magpul and Vltor that, while designed for primarily defensive applications, can be successfully used for hunting as well.  Color choice would obviously depend on the environment in which you plan to use the weapon. 

Installing a gas block instead of a standard front sight base can be beneficial by allowing you to mount a low magnification scope directly to the picatinny rail of the upper receiver without a riser.  Del-Ton has two rifles in our current product line that use a gas block instead of the front sight base for applications just like this (the DT Sport-OR and the Echo 316-OR).  If you are concerned about having the ability to use iron sights again, products with an integral sight like the YHM flip up front sight gas block or a model with rails can ease any concern.  If you do not have a handguard with rails, this latter option can also allow you to mount accessories like a laser or designator for night hunting opportunities.


When considering handguards, having a free float model can offer an increase in long range accuracy by not putting any stress on the barrel or affecting harmonics.  Smooth free float tubes have been a "standard" on AR-15 rifles designed for predator hunting, but some of the newer models with short, removable rail sections can offer the same benefit mentioned above, while still being comfortable for support hand positions.  In the previous blog post, the benefits of bipods were detailed.  These are definitely useful in many predator hunting scenarios where shots may be long, and a motion-less wait may be required while calling in game.


All of these choices can be narrowed down by focusing on your application.  If you hunt in the Western U.S. (where cover is scarce and shots are long), some of the options discussed may have benefits to predator hunting that would not apply for those hunting in the Eastern U.S. (where, due to the dense cover of wooded areas, shots are a little shorter and the animals appear in a more quick and suprising manner). 


In the next post we will discuss some predator hunting tips and methods that will hopefully help a beginner's hunt be successful and show how the tactics involved can make you a more skilled marksman in other applications.  Thanks for reading our blog. If you have any questions about the rifles or parts we offer at www.del-ton.com, plese contact us.

AR-15 Accessories...Little Things Matter

Its been said that, "The difference between something good and something great is attention to detail."  It seems like there are an infinite amount of accessories for the AR-15 rifle in existence already, and a continuous quest to develop even more.  Some of these are incredibly valuable (although maybe only for a specific application), while others are seemingly solely designed and produced to remove money from the pocket of the consumer.  There are a few accessories or parts that, though they seem small or insignificant when compared to the entire weapon, can greatly contribute to ease of use, better accuracy, enjoyment and possibly even a few of these benefits combined.


As the author of this blog, I have found it a little surprising that the post describing different AR-15 slings and their benefits or disadvantages has been one of the most popular in terms of pageviews.  Apparently, the ability to carry the weapon in a manner that is appropriate for how the shooter plans to use their weapon is a very important consideration.  That post included information about slings, but a particular sling may not be beneficial without the proper attachment parts to make its use optimal.  The typical AR-15 front sight base sling swivel and the swivel on the stock are fine for "over the shoulder" carry with a two point sling, but cause the weapon to awkwardly "roll" away from the shooter when using a two point sling and having the weapon muzzle down across the front of the torso.  Front and rear side sling adapters would be necessary to use the sling in this manner.  Del-Ton offers a number of sling attachment parts for single, two, and three point sling designs that can help you carry your weapon comfortably and be ready to present it quickly from a "ready" position. Pictured here is the Troy Pro Grade Sling Adapter.  For single point use, the quick-release, push-button sling swivel is a great feature.  This can be used with single or two point slings and requires no gunsmithing for installation-the castle nut or receiver endplate and buffer tube do not have to be removed, as this simply attaches to the exterior.  DTI also offers front side sling adapters that mount on the front sight base or a handguard rail for two and three point slings. 

If precision target shooting or varmint hunting is your favorite way to use your AR-15, having a quality bipod can assist you in a successful match or hunt.  Harris bipods in both swivel and non swivel models are available at www.del-ton.com.  The BR series is designed specifically for benchrest shooting applications.  These bipods mount to any standard sling swivel stud (like those found on some free float tubes), but DTI also offers mounts for picatinny rails. 

 

 

 

If you plan on using your rifle for home defense, there is not a more practical accessory to mount on the weapon than a light.  Whether you have iron or optical sights, a target needs to be illuminated in some manner and a quality light mount and light are important.  DTI offers Insight  lights (made by L3, the same company that produces EoTech HWS) and rail light mounts from a number of popular AR-15 manufacturers such as Daniel Defense, Magpul, and Knights Armament.  The Insight HX200 light features an easy programmable tailcap switch, a 300 hour run-time on its low setting, and 200 lumens!  The light mounts we offer can be mounted on rail sections-the ideal placement for activation of the light by your support hand and according to your preferred shooting style.  The Daniel Defense mount is a bit "offset" so that it does not get in the way of other mounted devices yet still provides a good position to control the functions of the light.

 

Little things can be VERY important. Of course, the best "accessories" for your AR-15 depend entirely on the application (s) in which you use the weapon most often.  Having a ton of peripheral tools on your weapon that do not provide a consistent advantage to your application will only give you the benefit of upper body strength!  Keep it simple and remember that modularity is the greatest advantage of this weapon platform.  You do not have to have every accessory ever produced for this weapon attached all the time.  Thanks for reading our blog.  If you have any questions about the AR-15 accessories or rifles we offer and produce at DTI, please feel free to contact us.